Here are ten moments/scenes from the past week. . .you decide whether they're in ascending or descending order:
10. I am reading a book about the battle for Jerusalem during 1967's Six Day War. Before reading the book, all I really knew was that Israel captured the Old City, including Judaism's holiest site the Western Wall, during the course of the war. The most gruesome battle was perhaps at Ammunition Hill, where several dozen Israelis were killed dislodging Jordanian soldiers. After reading the chapters on this battle, I visited the site itself, just a 20 minute walk from my campus. See the "Ammunition Hill" photo album for views of this unassuming crest whose capture altered the course of the war.
9. Two days after my visit to Ammunition Hill, a Palestinian suicide bomber exploded in the heart of Tel Aviv. Though no one was killed, dozens of people were physically and emotionally scarred for the rest of their lives. It is tempting to think of suicide bombings as the continuation by other means of the 1967 war, in which Israel occupied the West Bank; however, as I reminded a Left-leaning visitor from Sweden with whom I chatted the other day, Arab terrorism against Jews started many years before the occupation and - in indeed - decades before the creation of the state. So much for easy answers!
8. One of my oldest friends, Shanna, is here on birthright israel, the free trip during which I first drank the Kool-Aid in 2000. I visited her group at its hotel outside Jerusalem and heard typical comments about the life-altering nature of trip, the need for girls to watch out for Israeli men, etc. I was dismayed to hear about the extreme security measures imposed on the group, including being forbidden to leave the hotel for any reason. Shanna - a lawyer - asked if she could sign a waiver to leave and visit me but, alas, the answer was no. When I went on birthright six years ago, we were able to come and go as we pleased, allowing us to experience nightlife, shopping and time away from a highly structured tour. But that was then...
7. While we are on the international scene, I am pleased to report that animosities between my school's American students and some of the European students continue, unabated. During my class on sociological theories this week, we learned about Americans' penchant for pragmatism and practicality, which contrasts with Europeans' love of theory and discourse. A somewhat heinous-acting young German woman who my friend refers to as "bane" proceeded to rant about America, claiming it is a nation of conformists, "80% of whom are on drugs to make them happy" and "70% of whom cannot find their own country on a map!" (actual quotes). Usually, I sit back and giggle when the anti-American tirades break out - after all, it's not like any of us are proud of Bush. But this week, German girl crossed the line, and I entered the battle. Reminding the class that the US is by far the most charitable country on Earth, I looked at German girl and said: "And let's not forget, it was America which rescued humanity from certain international conflicts that engulfed the world half a century ago." Happily, the American corner of the room clapped and laughed, and German girl was left speechless.
6. A telling incident about another social cleavage took place on a night bus trip to see my friend on birthright. Her hotel was located in an area with many Orthodox Jews just outside Jerusalem. As several of them exited the bus and retrieved their bags from the compartments below, I watched the typically impatient Israeli driver hit the gas before one couple had a chance to slam shut the door of the luggage compartment. At the next stop, the driver steamed off the bus and slammed said door shut with a vengeance. After retaking the wheel, he ranted about his Orthodox passengers and the chutzpah they have in not closing the luggage compartment doors! Never one to halt a rant against the Orthodox, I smiled, wondering if the driver had any idea that unless he is more careful, he might run over an Orthodox couple next time instead of just preventing them from closing the door.
5. Sharon. If you look back at my "Benign Dictator" entry from last month, you might find it eerily preminiscient of this month's events involving Sharon's massive stroke and likely permanent incapacitation. Today, my Israeli politics professor pointed out how well the country has handled the turn of events, most notably the smooth transition of power to a man - Ehud Olmert - with little charisma or respect on the national level. As proven by events like the Yom Kippur War and Rabin's assassination, Israelis function better than anyone during times of crisis. Now if only they could learn how to drive...
4. Am I a giant monster? I went to try on clothes at a few local stores after months of wearing the same crusty fleece sweatshirts and jeans to class. Unfortunately, I am just too big for this country. Nothing fits me, and I mean nothing. All the clothes are apparently made for short, tiny men who enjoy having their circulation cut off by low-rise pants and impossibly tight shirts. Even the extra-large sizes felt more like a small would feel on me back in the US. It's not like I am overweight or out of shape - to the contrary, I get all kinds of seedy glances at the gym from all kinds of seedy-looking people. No, the problem is - like I said - I am just too big for this little country with its little people and their little clothes. Does the Big & Tall store deliver abroad?
3. I want my mummy! Bette Midler once said that when life gives you chicken shit, you must turn it into chicken salad. My last entry explains how my trip to Egypt had a lot of chicken shit to it. So, I took the Divine Miss M's advice and went to the kitchen, courtesy of the English enrichment program I volunteer at once a week. This Thursday was my turn to plan a program for the 40 children, and I designed four activities and an introduction around "Ancient Egypt." Kids made their own pyramids, wrapped each other like mummies, and did hieroglyphic codes. By the end of the hour, I felt better about Egypt, and we all came away with a good supply of toilet paper. See the "KEEP - Ancient Egypt" photo album.
2 - "Mistake after mistake!" Though I am generally pleased with my progress in Hebrew, I have arrived at a crossroads where my comprehension is much better than my speaking. Outside of class, I rarely speak Hebrew, as most of my friends are Anglos. I listen to lots of Israeli music and have short conversations with the occasional bus driver or shopkeeper, but I am by no means "immersed" in the language. The other day in class, after making several grammar mistakes, my teacher looked at me and said, "mistake after mistake!" in Hebrew. Never one to take a punch lying down, I retorted, "I am a mistake!" (in correct grammar), eliciting laughter from the class and even Batya (the teacher) herself. Friends, do not worry - I have plans for next semester to improve my speaking. These plans will be fleshed out in a future entry, but for now, here is a hint: TV.
1 - Related to the tidbit above, I am pleased to report that I went to my first Israeli drag show this weekend and understood most of the evening. This was not a simple feat, thank you, as not only was everything in Hebrew, but the jokes themselves were about Israeli society. Called "Good Night Israel," the show starred "Miss Laila Keri" and something like two-dozen of her costume changes, from Dolly Parton to Barbra Streisand to all kinds of famous Israelis. By the end of the show, I felt like a true Israeli, having understood the jokes and tactlessly elbowed my way to the front of the line to secure front row seats. Take that, Batya! (See the "Laila Tov Yisrael" photo album.)
