Jerusalem Swan Song, 2007

miff (noun)

1. A petulant, bad-tempered mood; a huff.
2. A petty quarrel or argument; a tiff.
3. To cause to become offended or annoyed.

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What kind of blog do I keep, and what are its ingredients?

A college mentor used to tell students, "fake it 'til you make it!" To me in private, she occasionally said, "Matthew! You need to take yourself seriously." I faked it for years before this guidance and - despite a distinctly authentic third decade on Earth - I continue to fake it here and there.

More has changed on the seriousness front as I've learned to find my voice and make it heard, if only to myself. Journals and diaries make dependable allies because they take you seriously, and there's no point in faking it. It's difficult to get miffed at your diary for coming late to coffee or making fun of your hair, and there's nothing like an old notebook (or talented therapist) to remind you where you've been, in your own voice.

If not for Bette Midler, I would not use the word miffed, in speaking much less blogging.

I am moving from Israel to the US for the second time in six years. Usually, doing something a second time makes it easier, or at least you care less. I don't know that I care less, but I guess it's easier to click on auto-pilot, you know? For almost a decade I’ve lived between the US and Israel, never fully in either, missing both at once.

I am always planning a move, actually moving, or having just moved.

Julie In typical form, I go out with a bang. Like the Titanic's final hours, my month has been filled with crying children and a good deal of splashing. A few days ago I finished staffing a birthright israel trip with 41 American mid-20-somethings. Imagine being a host, cruise director and social worker all at the same time, in Israel, attending to a full bus of young Jewish adults who've never been to the Middle East. My boss kept calling my co-counselor and I (left) "Julie and Julie," a reference to an era I did not witness, being just 25.

Back to tears. I made some people cry during the recently had "gift" of birthright, and it’s not unhealthy to admit this, or have a good 10-second cry twice a day when you're transitioning between continents.

The most vivid cry was had by a little girl who had come to Israel from Darfur, one of hundreds of refugees kicked out of Egypt to the Promised Land (remember Exodus?).  Israel's government is still on the fence about assimilating these refugees, so protesters set up a small tent city outside Jerusalem's government compound.

My birthright group was taking its Shabbat stroll when we came upon the tent city. One hand-painted Hebrew sign made a comparison to Auschwitz. Israeli 30-somethings (Tel Aviv types) played with rowdy Arabic-speaking children from today's Rwanda, a place called Darfur. My birthright campers whipped out their cameras and I, not unlike Princess Di, went to join the refugees (tactfully).

Shortly after inserting myself in the tent city, a little girl I had taken photos of grabbed my camera and would not let go. For a full minute it was a cross-cultural tug-of-war. At one point I lifted her off the ground as she clutched the handstrap and I the camera itself, all but certain that fierce biting would come soon. Shit like this did not happen to Diana, I remember thinking.

I retrieved my camera but catalyzed a refugee child's angry tears. Even before the tears, her eyes betrayed a total lack of joy, two deep pools of what we don’t want to see on the evening news (Lindsey Lohan, please). Even when I fished out a new pack of gum to offer in apology (below), our girl did not smile, grin, or offer reconciliation. I had made a child refugee from Darfur cry, if only for half a minute, and paid for it with a box of lemon sour gum.

Gum Israel must also give of itself to these people, for what can be more Jewish - not to mention historically appropriate - than the Jewish state taking in refugees from genocide?

The birthright trip was fantastic, as expected. I miffed the core group of liberals/queers/Lefties by vigorously supporting Israel's right to defend itself throughout the trip. More than once I clashed with a participant over this issue, and did my best to explain what they will never have explained to them on CNN or in the New York Times.

Israel's security barrier is not an apartheid wall or a land-grab, I calmly asserted. Thanks to the fence, bombings are no longer daily or weekly occurrences here. Some people heard that line before, and were apparently untouched by hundreds (thousands?) of Israeli Jewish and Arab lives saved since the fence went up. I dug deeper and explained how the fence saves the lives of Palestinians as much as Israelis, a rather obvious fact (except for CNN viewers).

Since the fence prevents suicide bombers from entering Israel, the Israeli army has lessened operations in Palestinian cities and towns where the bombers are bred. By 2007 it should be obvious to anyone with an attention span that the likes of Hamas and Hizbullah try their hardest to operate from within their own civilian populations. The more innocent Arabs killed by Israel (and the US and its allies), the better for our neighborhood terrorists, who are currently winning the international battle for hearts and minds through stellar PR and a total disregard for human life.

What could be more liberal than an Israeli security fence that prevents the wrongful deaths of Palestinian children?

At another point during the trip, several participants likened the birthright "Mega" event to a Nazi rally. The event featured 4,000 birthright participants from 13 countries filling a giant auditorium, waving flags, screaming at pyrotechnics and swaying to live music accompanied by exotically-dressed dancers. The display made some people uncomfortable, miffing them as it were - especially the flag waving, which is so not 2007 and has no place outside the Olympics.

To put a different frame on the rally, I dug into my memory bank and pulled up Canadian media theorist Marshall McClellan from COM 101. McClellan said "the medium is the message," meaning that new media like radio and later TV (and now the Internet) assume lives of their own, becoming more influential than any message they transmit. I urged participants not to fixate on the "medium" of this rally and read into what doesn't actually need reading.

Dome The "Mega" to me is many things - a Jewish pep rally, a thank-you to the philanthropists, a celebration of Israel and a giant disco. There really actually are not any messages attached to it. Foreign Minister Tzipi Livni spoke for five minutes at the "Mega" and - I swear - did not actually say anything. Still, at least several of my unnerved charges feared a Goebbles-like figure might take the stage at any moment and call for the expulsion of Arabs.

How do you make people understand what should be obvious, five minutes from Yad Vashem?

I shouldn't fixate on the political/controversial aspects of the trip, because they by no means characterized the experience for anyone. My co-counselor and I staged several small and large group discussions and were consistently gratified to hear people's stories, perspectives and goals. The trip is in many ways an extended, ten-day therapy session. There's even a small co-pay in that participants need to cough up funds for a meal or two, and that’s all.

Like a good therapist, birthright at its best does not tell participants what to do, where they should live, or what kind of Jews they should be. It immerses individuals in the encounter with Israel and lets them draw their own conclusions. Try not to miff them too much with wake-up calls, curfews and rules about drinking during the day. Do let them poke around at the market for 30 minutes, and sit next to hot, bronzed Jews with large guns.

I was on my surest footing when telling participants about various NGO's and nonprofits I'm familiar with or have done work for in Israel, particularly in Jewish-Arab co-existence. I can count on one hand the number of agencies operating in this realm, and most of them are quite modest in budget. I support these agencies and their brave visionaries with all my heart. They are like surgeons working to retrieve the life of someone going down on the table.

Gan When a patient's situation looks bleak, good surgeons kick it up a notch and fight. On a good day, half of me sort of knows the Middle East will know war far more destructive than anything we saw last century; it's only a matter of time, the writing's on the wall. I struggle to find the voice of my other, "glass half full" half, which says that surgeons sometimes win, and pushing one of epi plus three of Bob Marley might save a life and thus the world.

There is hope, we need more surgeons.

During my two Jerusalem years, I've more clearly connected my "Israel" career to a vision of social justice and repairing the world. I love Israel because it empowers women, and not just the Jewish ones. Any revolution is doomed to fail if women are not on board. Instead of shipping arms and treasure to the Palestinian Authority, Egypt and the like, Israel and the US should work to educate and empower Muslim women.

How can women have power in societies that keep them in burkas or won't let them out of their houses? Is the role played by "liberated" women in Israel more threatening to local regimes than control over a few miles of oil-barren land?

As an American, I recognize I am blessed. In no other country on Earth would I be able to live the life I lead and freely "be" who I am. I made sure to wear my Old Navy American flag T-shirt (two of them!) during the trip. More than once, I reminded participants that countries are really governments and governments are really just people and people make mistakes. There will never be a country or a government that does not screw up (and big time), just like there will never be a person incapable of error.

Using the reality of universal imperfection as a starting point, we must get over our "p.c." mindset and loudly announce that, yes, some societies are superior to others, or at least oppress their people a whole lot less. I for one would not choose to live in a country where brothers murder their sisters in "honor killings," or where gays are hung in public squares by the government. Should I be embarrassed to think my society is "superior" to such cultures?

Park I'm not Pollyanna. I know my country refuses to allow millions of Americans the right to make a life with the partner of their choice, not to mention the tax breaks. If I wave an American flag and no one's around to see, what does it mean? Am I betraying myself, or others? How do we raise children to care about people in danger, or people who've been marginalized by fear and hate? I want children to ask why some people get rights, but not others. Asking the question is half the battle.

In a related matter, at one point during the trip I felt compelled to tell a large group of participants I did not vote for George W. Bush. What I did not have the baitsim to tell them was the obvious (and heavily documented) truth behind the highly-ridiculed "axis of evil" notion. Today's Americans want their evil confined to places of worship and the movies, not the real world.

Yes, one can draw a line from Tehran to Damascus and on to Beirut and chart the movement of Islamofascist ideology, weapons of mass destruction (sorry to reintroduce the words) and calls to destroy the West. It's time to think like Churchill, not Chamberlain. Don't let the absurd medium that is George W. Bush muddle the urgent message behind his accurate framing of what could easily turn into another, nuclear holocaust. It's not like Bush himself coined the “axis” term, or thought the thoughts behind it, right?

One of my biggest blessings as an American is the freedom and mobility to move back and forth between my homelands, regularly (not done yet, with G-d's help). I recognize that millions of Americans face poverty and discrimination and hardships I have never encountered. My blessing is not everyone's. I have two Promised Lands; how many people have none?

One does not need a million dollars or a PhD to change a person's life. As a matter of fact, I imagine there's quite a few people out there with a million dollars or a PhD who've never changed a single person's life, not even their own. My Jewish Israeli cab driver the other day told me how his family "adopted" a young Arab woman from the north, helping her access education and resources. This is peace, not a slip of paper signed by Yassir Arafat.

The turning points in one's life are often unplanned, like people who cross your path and leave you with wisdom, or confidence, or love. I wouldn't be writing this, or sitting in Jerusalem today, were it not for a flyer I saw in my Boston University dorm eight years ago for "a free trip to Israel."

Fit A few times during the trip this month, the Israeli tour guide used me to model the map of Israel. The country is long and awkwardly fitted, so this was not a stretch. My elbow makes a mean Golan Heights, and, at one point, Ronnie the guide showed (at right) how the national water carrier takes water from the Heights down to the desert, which according to him was just below my waistline.

Let's stop there, because my private life is decidedly for another blog, or, more accurately, dozens of notebooks I've written since I was 14. I'll accept crying in public (briefly), but not sharing my mind's little black book, unless it yields a lot of funds or awareness for important causes.

Speaking of important causes, let's get back to birthright, the most successful project in the Jewish world today. More than 150,000 young Jewish men and women have visited Israel on this "gift" of a trip since the first buses in 1999 brought me and a few hundred American college students to Israel for free. Considering the world hosts just 13 million Jews, 150,000 is nothing to cough at.

Israel has the capacity to make one think all kinds of thoughts, and head in all kinds of directions. Even if the direction a birthright alumnus heads in turns out to be their same, pre-trip path, no one leaves without some new brain synapses forming, or at least losing a few in the desert.

In less than a month I resume my career as a professional Jew in Boston, where I will be managing Israel campus initiatives for Combined Jewish Philanthropies (CJP). This includes making sure more of Greater Boston's thousands of Jewish college students receive the gift of birthright, and do something with it, anything, upon their return. On some campuses, just two or three-percent of Jewish students have done birthright, despite the abundance of seats made available by generous donors.

The Boston area's 70+ colleges and universities have turned into a key battleground for Israel's legitimacy and the preservation of Western values; unfortunately, the battle is going the wrong way. I am going to get frustrated, and often. Hopefully there will be surgeons.

Sea Because adults and young adults get tedious, I will be returning to my so-called "pied piper" duties at Boston's Temple Israel - teaching fourth Sunday and Tuesday school and running monthly youth group outings. I am proud to say that during my four years at Temple Israel before moving to Jerusalem, I did not make one child cry. Nor do I intend to in the future. I just won't take anyone's picture, and everything should be fine.

And what of one of the other "some" people I made cry? Another was a participant who reacted strongly to my sharing a news story in which some Israeli youths threw cats into the annual Log B'Omer bonfires (there was a context, I swear). The said participant had already been miffed by the alleged cruelty of Israelis toward the cat species, and my callousness prompted tears. I apologized profusely, and, later in the trip, helped her lay out a bowl of water for cats during a picnic, even as the rest of the group cursed the dozens of felines circling our food (cats are like squirrels here).

If you make someone cry, you should apologize, and you might need to do so lavishly.

So what happened the past two years while I was allegedly a graduate student in Jerusalem? Was it worth the effort? There was a lot of growth, most of it internal. In a region obsessed with roots and layers of habitation, I can't say I dug so deep or built so tall. Most of the marks I left have been in cyberspace, or hiking trails. 

My "at-bat" theory of life has more than been confirmed by the vast number of projects, initiatives and long-shots I've taken. I filmed two weeks of a reality show last year only to see it cancelled during the war, before any of my segments aired. I published stories, editorials and perspectives on four continents, and even got called into my school principal’s office for one of them (but no sour grapes).

PickWith friends I launched two ambitious Internet ventures, and both seem to have failed. I’m not fluent in Hebrew, but 70% of the way there, maybe, at least according to the final exam, oy. I did a lot of gratifying volunteer work with kids and human rights agencies in a city where G-d seems to be everywhere but humanity difficult to identify. 

We won't even talk about dating.

As per my "at-bat" theory, the only way to hit a homerun or two is to keep going up to bat. Strikes and foul balls are the curtain before the Overture, you might say. People should never give up trying to transform themselves or their communities or the world. Most of the stories and topics I love are closely tied to transformations, both sudden and gradual. I collect these stories in notebooks and occasionally share them with others. A transsexual the Israeli army helped go from F to M. My great uncle, the fighter pilot, lost over European skies as my grandparents languished in Auschwitz. Ancient Egyptians preparing for the next world. The State of Israel. Sometimes we choose our transformations, but they are often forced upon us.

My Jerusalem graduate student years were bookended by death and cut by a miracle. There's no place like the holiest of holy cities to ponder Creation and wrestle with reality. I see so much creation in Jerusalem, and so much destruction. We are most like G-d when we create - a garden, a child, a place to contemplate. I feel closer to G-d than ever, and also alone. I am in your face, ready to dispute, reluctant to take responsibility. Trying to take myself more seriously, whatever that means. A year or a decade or grad school are more than the events therein; they are the invisible themes running between events, and themes can be elusive.

What are the themes of your life, and do you have a theme song?

Golan_1 If this is my Jerusalem Swan Song, my last graduate school blog entry, does what I write here obligate or define me? What if the topics above only represent, say, 15% of the things I actually do and think about? What if 85% of my life will never appear in a blog, or even the pages of my own journal?

We are all victims of the censor, and the censor is often oneself. During the second of her two years in hiding, Anne Frank rewrote and censored her original diary with an eye toward publication. Later, after her death, Anne's father went on to remove references to sexuality, family relations and other "inappropriate" topics. The Anne Frank you read growing up was censored first by Anne, and later by others. Even today, some prefer to distill Anne to her "people are really good at heart" line, as if the message of Anne Frank has nothing to do with her dying a harrowing death in a Nazi concentration camp before her sixteenth birthday.

A censor has the power to distort and deceive, and so do each of us. Words are powerful, more powerful than weapons, because it is only through words that weapons assemble themselves. Judaism teaches the world was created with words, literally the word of G-d. The "Genesis" story was the first and ultimate act of communication, not to mention creation.

Where do my words place me in the world, and where will they lead others, if anywhere?

Preaching with Spray Cans

(Also published on Ynetnews)

Bunny This week I decided to systematically examine the graffiti panorama known as Jerusalem, Tel Aviv and the roads connecting them. My tour offered a healthy dose of what one might call the latest public art, albeit illegally rendered. As with bumper stickers, billboards and Eretz Nehederet, graffiti reflects a host of trends, issues and divides in the Jewish state.

Doubt Trumps Joy
To my dismay, some of the large "Na Nach Nachma" installations along the Jerusalem-Tel Aviv road have been erased, assumedly by authorities bent on reclaiming concrete. Though not highly observant, I've always enjoyed seeing this religious-based mantra throughout Israel and – on occasion -  its Breslover Hasidim-chanters dancing atop a van. I particularly admire Reb Nachman and his followers' connection to joyful living, well expressed by our friends atop the van.

In Tel Aviv, the Nachman graffiti often lives in close proximity to its cousin, "Am Yisrael Chai"/The People of Israel Live. Large red questions marks have recently been added to many of these proclamations, throwing the status of Earth's thirteen-million Jews into question. Maybe it's Tel Aviv's large foreign worker population, or simply its cosmopolitan flavor, but at least one petty criminal wants us to think twice about the Jewish future.

Love/Hate

Red hearts and the Hebrew words for "Tolerance, Equality and Love" have appeared in downtown Jerusalem, particularly the heavily Anglo-inhabited German Colony and Baka areas. Some of these installations live adjacent to the date for last November's Jerusalem gay Pride demonstration, no doubt a response to incitement and actual violence perpetrated by some of Jerusalem's holiest homophobes before the rally. With another Pride rally scheduled for June 21, it's appropriate the municipality has not removed these rejoinders in red.

What the municipality should - and must - erase, however, are the dozens of "Kahane was Right" declarations scrolled throughout the city. Banned twice by the Knesset for racism, Kahane and his plan to deport all Arabs from Israel represent a gross distortion of Jewish values and Israel's founding ideals. Fortunately for the Foreign Ministry, most of the thousands of Taglit/birthright participants visiting this summer will be unable to decipher these Hebrew words, whether for lack of Hebrew or local political acumen.

The National Mood
Jerusalem in recent months has been graced by a wide array of stock art depicting famous personalities. Men (but no women) including Moshe Dayan, Winston Churchill and Kermit the Frog have made their home on electric boxes, support beams and buildings throughout the city center. My personal favorite is Iran's Mahmoud Ahmedinjead (above) sporting pink bunny ears, a depiction I connect with eating Haman's ears for Purim and the Jewish knack for making light of our enemies.

Usually devoid of text and randomly placed, the representations offer no apparent political message other than, "Look, it's Kermit the Frog!" Perhaps there is a method to the sprayed madness, however, when one considers public confidence levels in our national leaders, most of whom would kill for Kermit's popularity.

More explicit political graffiti certainly exists, and my personal favorite is a billboard warning against forest fires near the start of Road 443. "Just one fool can burn down an entire forest," reads the text above a half-extinguished cigarette. One of Israel's tallest (or most industrious) public artists has taken the liberty of crossing out the word "forest" and replacing it with "country." The display was particularly ironic as our Egged bus was only on Road 443 because another bus had caught fire on Road 1 outside Jerusalem, thus closing traffic. Can't blame that on Olmert, right?

You Decide
The most curious of all recent graffiti trends might be the hundreds of "aleph-zion" displays centered in Jerusalem. According to my Hebrew dictionary, this spells the word for "so;" however, the translation far from explains the enigma. Like a Syrian peace offer, "aleph-zion" calls for probing and analysis, or at least ignoring.

An obvious interpretation would be the recurring, urgent question of, "So, what now?" This "so" – also known as "nu?" in Hebrew - marks the intersection of uninspired leadership and serious security threats which continue to top the national agenda. It is slightly accusatory, coming on the heels of withdrawals from Lebanon and Gaza that have led to anything but quiet.

Hundreds of "so's" can be spotted in Jerusalem – on construction signs, traffic circle markers, walls and doors. Often appearing with the stylized tagin crown atop the zion, these "so's" mirror today's Middle Israeli far better than Nachman, Kermit or Kahane - succient, in-your-face and a little muddled.

Fabulous 40?

P1010028This week is the 40th anniversary of Jerusalem's reunification following 1967's Six Day War. If you've kept up with my blog for the past (almost) two years, you know I have mixed feelings about Jerusalem.

On the one hand, it's exhilarating to live in the city that has inspired Jewish thought and yearning for more than 3,000 years. Rolling out of bed and walking to the Western Wall/Temple Mount (in just half an hour!) is something I've done many times since moving here. To stoop to cliches, Jerusalem has its own brand of magic that can be sensed by even casual visitors. It feels like the center of the Earth is Jerusalem, and, indeed, much of the world prays to (and for) Jerusalem.

Unfortunately, the Holy City is also brimming with hate and fear. Though I fully support Israel's security barrier, it's not exactly pleasant to see a giant gray wall snaking through the hills to prevent our Palestinian neighbors from blowing themselves up in our buses and cafes.

Even beyond the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, Jerusalem houses religious leaders of all faiths eager to condemn "sinners" and further divide a fractured society. Yes, it was nice to see all those posters put up by ultra-Orthodox leaders offering rewards for the murder of gays last year.

Allegedly sacred and the symbol of symbols, Jerusalem's poverty rate is higher than anywhere in Israel and the streets and fields are strewn with trash. The good, the bad and the ugly come to mind when I think of how I'd describe Jerusalem to someone who knows nothing. Which element outweighs the others depends on the day.

Here is an article I published about the Hand in Hand school - it is tied with the Western Wall for my "Holiest Site in Jerusalem" award. If the leaders and philosophies driving Hand in Hand represent Israel's future, there just might be hope.

Download hand_in_hand.doc

The Heavy Week

Img_0515_8It’s interesting that the first full week of Spring weather often coincides with the “heaviest” week on the Israeli national calendar.

Last Sunday was Holocaust Remembrance Day, and this year’s news “hook” was the fact that 70,000 of the country’s quarter-million Holocaust survivors are living in poverty. As I write this, the annual memorial ceremony for fallen soldiers is taking place at the Western Wall. More than 100 families are mourning loved ones killed in last summer’s Second Lebanon War.

Fitting to the split-personality, schizophrenic Israeli mentality, in 24-hours starts the biggest party of the year, Independence Day. The line between the Holocaust, personal sacrifice and national independence is clearly drawn during this long Spring week. There is absolutely no escaping the meaning of these somber days in Israel. Almost every Jewish Israeli family has suffered one or more losses in either the Holocaust, half a century of wars or a terror attack (these victims are honored tomorrow as well). The country is too small not to feel the pain of these days.

A great irony is that the Jewish state as conceived by many Zionist thinkers was meant to “normalize” the Jews by providing an antidote to anti-Semitism. Instead, Israel has become the “Jew” of the nations, unfairly singled out for defending itself against a state-sponsored network of terrorism and a slew of countries ready to annihilate the Jewish state as soon as they gain battlefield parity.

Israel both is and is not the “safe haven” envisioned by its founders. A Jewish army protects the citizenry and has rescued imperiled Jews around the world; however, where else in the world have Jews been relentlessly targeted in suicide bombings, rocket attacks, and several “conventional” wars during the past six decades?

I have little hope there will be “peace” during this or the next generation. The concept of “peace” based on concepts like negotiation and co-existence is quite Western and has little connection to the culture and norms in this part of the world. During the past decade, it has become clear that Jewish Israelis want a Palestinian state more than the Arab world itself. This makes sense when one considers that the festering Israeli-Palestinian conflict – supported by Islamist extremists throughout the region – is the most potent weapon in the war against Israel.

As Anne Frank wrote, I believe people really are good at heart; however, where there’s no freedom of expression or respect for human rights and dignity, much less an appreciation of pluralism, it’s difficult for that alleged “silent majority” in the region to make itself heard without getting shot. Coming to terms with Israel’s existence would force Israel’s neighbors to point fingers at the real causes of the region’s disastrous state of affairs. Needless to say, this abysmal situation has nothing to do with an oil-less Jewish state the size of New Jersey.

Recognizing the dire reality of Islamist extremism and a region largely trapped in the Dark Age does not free Israel from its responsibility to serve as “a light unto the nations.” This “light” means working toward greater inclusion of Israel-Arabs in the collective, and lifting the stain of 70,000 Holocaust survivors in poverty. It means lessening the ultra-Orthodox establishment’s excessive control over religions freedom and civic affairs, and expanding the framework for all Israelis to serve their country in the army or through national service. It means building living bridges in a society becoming increasingly polarized and paralyzed along ethnic and religious lines, not to mention political.

The most fitting memorial to Israel’s 22,305 fallen soldiers would be to continue working toward the half-fulfilled Zionist dream - to build a country infused with the Jewish values that have become a guiding light for so much of the world.

(I took the photo above during a visit to Yad Vashem two weeks ago, as soldiers rehearsed for the natiional ceremony opening Holocaust Remembrance Day.)

Sea to Sea

F_6On Sunday I returned from the annual "Sea to Sea" pre-Passover school hike.

We visited sites between the Mediterranean Sea and the Sea of Galilee in Israel's lush Upper Galilee region, site of stunning vistas, ancient Jewish synagogues, and - last summer - thousands of rockets shot in from our friendly northern neighbors.

In the Galilee, the urban sprawl of central Israel gives way to moutain vistas, small villages, crumbling Crusader fortresses and streams winding down to the Sea of Galiee. From some mountains the snow-capped Mount Hermon can be seen, the highest point in the country and only Israeli ski resort.

Click on the "Sea to Sea" folder for photos. Above, the Jordan River flows into the Sea of Galilee.

Rounds Abound

"Full circle" implies a return to the beginning, closure, or at least a doughnut. Yesterday I noted some full circles:

                                                 

I met with a Jewish day school from Boston as part of my PR work for Combined Jewish Philanthropies' Boston-Haifa Connection. Fourteen eighth-grade students are here for the annual Israel trip, and walking to their hotel I wondered if I would know two of them who were in my third grade Sunday School class in Boston five years ago.

Sure enough, Abi and Leila were there, a lot taller and with better vocabulary. I asked every student to share their impressions of Israel and smiled when Abi talked about the difference between learning about Israel for nine years in school and actually being here. I thought about my class five years ago, and an "Explore Israel" project I did where each student researched a different city or region. These kids are now post-bar/bat mitzvah "adults," and can explore on their own, for real (with intense adult supervision and a rifle-toting security guard, of course).

                                                

Alufa_tempThis weekend I watched many hours of my favorite Israeli soap opera HaAlufah (The Champion), which returns for a second season tonight. I had never seen the final weeks of the first season because I was in the US. As with any soap opera, scheming and plotting and cheating abound, except here it's all in Hebrew.

Some - but not all - of the stories came full circle. The best was the story of Rani and Rita. Mid-season, Rita was blind and dated Rani until he couldn't deal with the blind thing anymore. Soon after breaking up, Rita went to Switzerland for pioneering eye surgery that restored her vision. Just as she was starting to see again, Rani was injured in a terror attack at the soccer stadium, losing his own eyesight. In the final episodes, they get together again, with Rita promising to teach Rani "everything I know" about being blind. Rani's response? "I only wish I had seen you naked before losing my eyesight."

In Your Face

P1010004Now that I am allegedly planning to move back to the US this summer, I wax nostalgically for Israel all the time.

Did I write already that a friend of mine accused me of liking Israeli kitsch more than actually living here? She was kind of right. Israel is vision turned into reality, and - as is well known - reality can be rough around the edges. Like many transplants, I have a long list of complaints about living here, and as it grows so too does my connection to Israel deepen.

The "rough around the edges" nature of Israel is what I like most about living here (next to Zionist pioneer era kitsch, of course). Last night I went to see the new Israeli movie Beaufort, about the evacuation of a strategic mountain fortress in Lebanon by Israel in 2000.

Much to my surprise, surrounding me in the first few rows were a host of 12-13-14-year olds. This was not the crowd I expected to see at a serious army drama, much less on a school night. These kids did not stop talking and laughing and shining cell phone lights on each other for two hours, soliciting a few rebukes from adults further back in the theater.

Throughout the movie, Israeli soldiers - 18 to 21-year olds - are killed by Hezbollah missiles and rocket attacks, almost on cue every half hour. "Society and Politics" student that I am, the connection between these deaths and the rowdy junior high students was not lost on me. Israeli kids have run of the country here, apparently because soon they will be on the front line in wars, anti-terror operations and dangerous borders.

There is not a widespread discourse of "respect for elders" in Israel, as (anecdotally) evidenced by teachers being called only by first names here and the abject poverty of many Holocaust survivors. As a demographically young society and "new" country founded on the notion that the "ghetto" Jew of old must be transformed, Israel worships youth. Seniors have been so abandoned that in the last election, they formed a political party and captured many seats in the Knesset (parliament) from which to improve the lot of Israel's elderly population.

The kids sitting around me at the movie were incredibly obnoxious and loud, yelling out "pussy!" and "homo!" and other choice words throughout the movie, jumping up and down, screaming at each other, etc. In the US, I would have expected a manager to deal with them after a few patron complaints, or at least a couple of adults to get in the kids' faces.

In Israel, however, the kids run the show. In just a few years, these same kids will be in the shoes of the soldiers depicted in the movie. This is what their society expects of them. There's not an expectation to behave during movies, even ones about the destruction of Israeli youth by local enemies.

(My photo, from Independence Day celebration last year in Jerusalem.)

Proximity

Proximity - The quality or state of being next in time, place, causation, influence, etc.; immediate nearness, either in place, blood, or alliance.

MountBack in Israel, proximity is on the rise. This is something of a love-hate relationship for me - I often like being close to the center of action, but need about as much (or more) time in my own bubble.

Literally two hours after arriving to my apartment from the airport, a friend called to say suicide bombers were just captured at the bank around the corner from my building. I had heard a helicopter close by, but this is not uncommon. Then, after this call, I could swear I heard what sounded like a controlled explosion - another common occurrence when a police robot blows up an errant suspicious package or object.

Being ornery and tired from no sleep on a 12-hour flight, I did not care to find things out for myself. Local news briefs mentioned "police activity" at the bank. The next day, the story looked a lot more like a robber dropping his backpack on the way out than a bombing attempt.

Since Palestinian bomb laboratories and suicide bombers are actually intercepted here almost every day (lightly reported on by even Israeli media, though imagine the FOX coverage of such an event in the US!), it's understandable that people are jittery. Word spreads fast in a country of 7 million people (guess where the cell phone was invented).

More interesting proximity-wise is the controversial "discovery" of a tomb believed to be the final resting place of Jesus and family members, about a 10-minute walk from my apartment. Not surprisingly, James "Titanic" Cameron is involved in this emerging story, and the discovery is tied to the production of a documentary. Alleged "overwhelming statistical evidence" points to Jesus having been buried in this tomb, despite New Testament accounts saying otherwise.

A "Jesus son of Joseph" inscription found at the tomb has failed to impress local archaeologists. "Yeshua was such a popular name during the Second Temple Period," said Israeli archaeologist Danny Bahat. "The fact that you have such similar names is due to the fact that these were the prevalent names during that time," he said.

The story has some religious leaders up in arms, as any "proof" of a Jesus family tomb contradicts the resurrection story and - in this case - the belief that Jesus died a "single" man, and childless. Possibly more damaging, the tomb's "discovery" contradicts the central Christian belief that Jesus was buried in the Holy Sepulcher on the Via Dolorosa in Jerusalem's Christian quarter and was later resurrected.

There's some other Bible-related controversy taking place a half-hour walk from my building at that old hot-spot known as the Temple Mount, and in this case it's getting violent. Muslim extremists have for a century used any Jewish attempts at construction (or, sometimes, even prayer activity) at the site to rile up the masses to violence.

This time, Israeli repairs to a minor ramp leading up to the Temple Mount have sparked Muslim rioting and allegations that Israel intends to destroy mosques built atop the site of the ancient Jewish Temples. Six years ago, Ariel Sharon merely walking on the Temple Mount "caused" the intifada that claimed thousands of lives and squashed hopes for peace.

As we can discern with the "Jesus tomb" and Temple Mount happenings, people just love their religious fervor. If these same people applied some of that outrage to real-life desecrations and atrocities (i.e., Darfur and Iraq), the world would be in better shape.

For some, proximity has little to do with reality, and everything to do with fantasy.

Making Rounds

ActivismI am in Boston for the week seeing friends and doing projects in the Jewish community, including speaking at campuses on the double-punch topic of GLBT activism/rights in Israel and international advocacy for Israel. Last night I spoke at my alma mater to students from the GLBT group (Spectrum) and Students for Israel, and tonight is those same groups at Harvard.

Click here for an article on my talk last night from the Boston University newspaper.

Opening Hearts, Changing Lives

Flag1_5Hot off the press -- the annual report/10th anniversary commemoration for the Jerusalem Open House, which I volunteered to write several months ago. This has been an incredibly interesting, rewarding and challenging project. I interviewed more than 20 people and delved deeply into JOH's history, accomplishments and battle for survival in a holy city brimming with hate.

The staff at JOH has been gracious, helpful and inspiring throughout the whole process, giving me creative freedom and a free hand (allegedly because I "know" the American donor audience for whom the report is intended). You can also look for a copy of this month's Heeb magazine (at large bookstores in the US) to see an article I wrote about JOH's young executive director, Noa Sattath. This is Heeb's "Love" issue, and I felt the Open House belonged in those pages.

Please click below and learn a bit about this agency that's a home, a voice and a social change agent all in one.

Download joh_annual_report.pdf

Above - a picture I took in Jerusalem of a message on top of a message.